VTCT LEVEL 1 FOUNDATION DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES
Unit 3
Introducing hair styling
UNIT 3 INTRODUCING HAIR STYLING
Introduction
Three of the six industries in the hair and beauty
sector are involved in hair styling: hairdressing,
barbering and African Caribbean. But even though
each one is very different, they all have the same
focus when it comes to the basics.
This unit will help you to understand hair types and how to make the
most of them in styling. You will also investigate trends, tools, products
and equipment. And, of course, handling equipment means you will
need some knowledge of health and safety.
Being familiar with past trends and understanding how to work with
different hair types and tools will all help you with one thing: great
styling results.
Learning outcome
Covered in section…
LO1:
Trends and influences
Know the key
trends and
developments in
the hair sector
Understanding the different
industries
LO2:
Anatomy and physiology
Know the main
factors that
influence hair
style and styling
techniques
Relevance when working with hair
LO3
Tools, products and equipment
Be able to
demonstrate a
range of styling
and finishing
techniques for
men and women
Understanding what can be used to
create each style
Page
number
000
000
This unit provides the opportunity to
link to other units within the principal
learning.
000
Unit 1
Introducing the hair and
beauty sector
Hair types and styles
Meaning and use of basic hair and
beauty terminology
000
Hair types and styles
Awareness of what can be
produced
Hair styling techniques and
methods
Understanding the services and
treatments that are available
000
000
LO4:
Review learning and progress
Be able to
review styling
and finishing
techniques
Gaining feedback from others
regarding your progress
This will help you to understand
the role and influence of the hair
and beauty sector and know what
treatments are typically offered by
each industry.
Unit 2
Creating a positive impression
within hair and beauty
This will help you to understand
how to create a positive impression
as a professional, and why this is
important. It will also help you to find
out what customers would like.
Throughout this unit you will be
able to practise being:
Healthy and safe working practices
Health, safety and hygiene:
sanitisation, sterilisation, crossinfection, disinfectant, personal
protective equipment, potentially
infectious conditions
Links to other units
000
l an independent enquirer
l a creative thinker, and
l a reflective learner.
You will also be able to practise
your skills in:
000
l speaking and listening
l reading, and
l writing.
VTCT LEVEL 1 FOUNDATION DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES
Trends and influences
Starting Point
Has anyone said to you:
‘I used to wear my hair like that
when I was your age?’
Do you think we should use the
past for inspiration?
In this section you will explore hair styles through the ages and their
effect on today’s styles. For example, styles in ancient civilisations
such as the Romans and Egyptians were influenced by culture and
experimenting with results – much as today. You will also look at tools,
equipment and products. Many of these today are based on what was
used in the past.
Styling tools
Styling tools have developed over hundreds of years. Think about
curlers, for example.
l To begin with, many ancient civilisations used heated iron bars to
curl their hair.
l Then the 1800–1900s, double wave crimping irons and curling irons
were created. These were heated over a fire to make them effective.
l Electricity meant that curling irons became much safer and caused
less damage to hair.
UNIT 3 INTRODUCING HAIR STYLING
Accessories
Many civilisations used hair accessories such as ribbons, flowers, hair
pins, bones, sticks and combs. Many of these were individually crafted
and quite ornate. For example, Native Americans wound their hair
around curved wood or used a disc-shaped fan to style hair. Another
elaborate African style was plaiting hair over a cone-shaped basket
frame and decorating with long bone needles.
Hair pieces, wigs and extensions
Hair pieces, wigs and extensions have always been popular.
l Native Americans created artificial brightly coloured hair known as
roaches (also known as Mohawk or Mohican hairstyle), made from
porcupine or deer hair.
l The Ancient Greeks, Romans and Victorians used hair pieces.
l During the eighteenth century wigs were very elaborate. Some used
wire to give enough height so that objects such as ships or bird
cages could be placed in them.
Products
In ancient civilisations:
Allergic reaction
– skin reacts badly to a product
l Africans and Native Americans used grease or clay in their hair
Serpents – snakes
l the Romans created what they called ‘holding solutions’
Henna – reddish-brown plant dye
l relaxing creams were developed to straighten curly African
Caribbean hair and create smoother hair styles.
Ibex – wild goat
The Egyptians used aromatherapy oils to stimulate hair growth. Scalp
treatments included the use of animal fats from lions, hippopotamuses,
crocodiles, ibex, serpents and geese.
Porcupine – like a large rodent
with sharp erectile bristles and fur
Men’s products
Social status – e.g. in ancient
civilisations whether someone
was a slave or king
In the 1920s, powerful American advertising persuaded men to try
Brylcreem, a styling product to hold hair in place. (Men could also buy
hair tonics and oils from barbering salons and chemists.) The main
ingredient was lanolin, which gave a shiny but heavy look. But when
men’s hairstyles changed in the 1960s, companies began to create
lighter gel and water-based products.
Colour
In 1910 a French hairdresser,
Gaston Boudou, produced the first
range of pre-mixed hair colours.
The main ingredient was amino
dyes, which caused severe allergic
reactions. These days, salons
usually do an allergy test before
using some products.
l Charles Nestle invented the first
perm machine in the early 1900s.
l The pressing/curling iron
was patented by Theora
Stephens, 1980.
Did you know?
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l the Japanese used wax
Mohawk and Mohican – Native
American tribes and a type of hair
style
Did you know?
l Alexandre Godefoy invented
the first electric hair dryer
in 1890.
In Ancient China, hairdressers
did not like cutting hair. Short hair
was sometimes the sign of a bad
person, so prisoners would have to
have their hair cut. However, monks
and nuns would shave their heads
to devote their lives to
their religion.
l In the 1950s, setting the hair in curlers was the first step in creating
modern bouffant styles.
Jargon buster
Did you know?
Our ancestors coloured their hair with very basic dyes. For example,
Africans use red earth, Egyptians uses henna and Romans used dye
to make a golden–red colour or would even bleach the hair. Native
Americans painted their hair and the Elizabethans used bleach to try to
create a red colour. Today, African Americans are able to successfully
bleach and colour their hair.
Hair sticks have been used
throughout history –
from the ancient Japanese
to modern Western styles.
Over to you
The history of hairstyling
In a small group, find out how hair styles differed
between Native American tribes. You could use the
Internet or textbooks for this research. Then create a
handout or mood board to show your findings.
You could include:
l a variety of pictures
l some details about the difference between male and
female styles
l the tools, products and accessories they would have used
l whether the styles were based on age, gender and social
status.
You could also write about what any similarities
there are today.
PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW
Functional Skills Links: English – reading, writing; ICT
Check it out
■ When were heated
curling irons first used?
■ Which ancient civilisation did
not cut their hair, as it was
seem as a sign of disgrace?
■ When did men start to
use styling and hair care
products?
VTCT LEVEL 1 FOUNDATION DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES
Healthy and safe
working practices
Starting Point
Have you ever had a good look
around a salon or barber’s?
Where they clean and uncluttered?
Did you feel safe?
Do you think all employers and
employees take health and
safety seriously?
In this section you will learn why health and safety
are important. All businesses must comply with
health and safety laws. When someone works
with tools, equipment and products, they need to
know what the dangers are and how to stay safe.
So they, too, need to be aware of these laws. In
addition, they need to know about cross-infection
and hygiene, and knowing how to treat information
given to them by clients.
Health and safety laws
In hairdressing and barbering, there are many health and safety laws
that must be followed.
Incineration – burning
l providing a first-aider and first-aid facilities
l creating emergency procedures
l reporting accidents, hazards and risks.
Employers must enforce safe working practices and ensure that
all employees understand and follow the health and safety laws.
Disposing of all types waste (glass, paper, chemicals, sharp items) is
also important. For example, razor blades (which could come into
contact with blood) must be disposed of in a special box (a Sharps
Disposal Bin), which is later collected for incineration.
Manufacturer’s instructions
When using any products on clients, you must always read the
manufacturer’s instructions. This will make sure you are following
health and safety laws – especially CoSHH.
l In small groups pick three
laws from below, then
research them to find out the
main points. You could use
textbooks or the Internet.
l When you have done your
research, you could then
discuss what might happen if
each law was ignored.
Workplace (Health, Safety and
Welfare) Regulations
Health and
Safety at Work
Act
l To ensure all employees and clients are safe
while on the premises.
Clients should always have a skin test before chemical products are
used on them. A small amount of the product (e.g. tint and peroxide)
is placed behind the client’s ear and left for 2–4 days. Any irritation,
swelling or redness should be noted on their record card and a different
treatment used.
Provision and Use of Work
Equipment Regulations
l To be aware of salon hazards and dangers.
Cross-contamination and hygiene
Cross-contamination will happen if health and safety policies are not
correctly followed. These infections can be directly or indirectly caused.
To prevent them everyone must:
Control of
Substances
Hazardous
to Health
(CoSHH)
l To ensure all employees understand how
all products are used, handled, stored and
disposed of correctly. (Products in hair industries
include, styling products, tints, peroxide,
relaxing chemicals, and anything that is
poisonous, toxic, flammable.)
Electricity
at Work
Regulations
l Equipment suppliers to train employees to use
their equipment.
Personal
Protective
Equipment
at Work
Regulations
l PPE to protect employees and clients from
injuries or damage to clothing during a
treatment. (All employees must be given PPE
and trained to use all equipment.)
Client consultation and
the Data Protection Act
Fire Precaution
Work Place
Regulations
l Businesses to have regular fire drills.
As well as writing on a client’s records any allergies, any contraindications or infectious conditions should also be recorded. This
information is especially important if a different person works on them
when they next visit the salon. Aftercare advice must also be noted,
especially if clients buy and use products from the salon.
l Employees to check electrical equipment EVERY
TIME before use on client (e.g. check wires,
plug and machine, before switching on).
l Employees to be trained for a fire evacuation.
l wash their hands in between clients
l check for contra-indications
l use clean towels and gowns
l sterilise all tools and equipment, to prevent this.
Indirect cross-infection
means an infected client coming
into contact with a towel or tool
that is then used, without being
cleaned, on another client.
Direct cross-infection
means one person (the employee)
touching another (the client) who
perhaps has scabies or head lice.
In hairdressing, you get to know a lot of personal information about
your clients. If you disclose any of that information, then you are
breaking the Data Protection Act.
Over to you
Manual Handling
Operations Regulations
Scabies – tiny animal mites living
in the skin
Sterilise –kill or inhibit
micro-organisms that
contaminate tools
l making risk assessments
Skin tests
l To report faulty equipment and label it ‘faulty.’
Cross-contamination – infections
or infestations passed to other
people or objects
Workplace policies clearly explain how to keep everyone safe in a salon
environment. These policies state the responsibilities of key employees,
including:
Some main points of the law
l To report accidents and fill in necessary reports.
Contra-indications – infections or
infestations that you can catch,
e.g. head lice or scabies
Workplace policies for salons
Law
l To make sure Personal Protective Equipment
(PPE) (gloves, apron, gowns when using
chemicals, etc.) are used.
Jargon buster
UNIT 3 INTRODUCING HAIR STYLING
Health and Safety
(First Aid) Regulations
Office, Shops and Railway
Premises Act
Employer’s Liability Act
Fire Precautions Act
Environmental Protection Act
l Now create a poster to help
someone else understand
what one of your chosen laws
means.
PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW
Functional Skills Links:
Check it out
■ D
o you think all
businesses sterilise their
tools in between clients?
■ How confident are you that
all employees and employers
follow all health and safety
laws?
■ How would you feel if
you caught a contraindication from having
a treatment?
VTCT LEVEL 1 FOUNDATION DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES
Anatomy and
physiology
Starting Point
Look around you.
How many hair colours, textures,
shapes and thicknesses can you see?
Why do you think there are so
many differences?
How many people do you think
have changed their hair with
perms, straightening or colour?
In this section you will look the anatomy and
physiology of the hair and skin. You will find out
what happens underneath the skin’s surface and
learn some of the key stages of hair growth. There
is also some useful terminology, helping you to build
your hairdressing vocabulary.
The hair
Hairs cover the whole body – except for the palms of your hands, the
soles of your feet, your lips and parts of the genital organs. What’s
more, three different types of hairs cover your scalp, eyebrows,
eyelashes, nostrils, ears, face and body.
UNIT 3 INTRODUCING HAIR STYLING
The dermal papilla, or matrix, is the lower part of the bulb. This is where:
l new cells are made
l there is a rich blood supply to bring nutrients and oxygen, leading to
mitosis.
Sebaceous and sweat glands
l Sebaceous glands are where sebum, which keeps the skin and hair
soft and supple, are found. They are all over the body except for your
palms and soles. They can open in follicles or onto skin’s surface. If
the gland produces too much sebum the hair and scalp will be very
greasy. If it produce too little, the hair and scalp will be very dry.
l Sweat glands produce sweat to hydrate the skin and keep the
body cool.
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Did you know?
Skin is shed all the time.
If it is shed too quickly,
a condition known as
dandruff will occur.
A cross section of the skin and hair.
Type 1: lanugo. These are soft, fine, downy hairs found on the face
and body of unborn babies. They are replaced with vellus and
terminal hairs around 7–8 months into the pregnancy.
Jargon buster
Follicle – depression in the skin
where hair is found
Mitosis – when new cells are made
Pigmented – has natural colour
Sebum – the skin’s natural oil; it
coats the skin and hair
Unpigmented – has no colour
Type 2: v
ellus. These are fine, soft and downy. They are found on
the face and body. They have shallow follicles, and are
usually unpigmented. They can be stimulated to produce
terminal hairs.
Type 3: t erminal. These are long and course, and mostly pigmented.
They have deep-seated follicles and are found on the scalp,
eyebrows, eyelashes and pubic regions.
Growth and structure
There are three stages of hair growth.
l Anagen is the active stage where hair growth takes place.
l Catagen is the changing stage where the hair detaches
from the base of the follicle and the bulb.
l Telogen is the resting stage of the follicle before the start of new
hair growth.
The hair structure is made up of three layers.
Over to you
Understanding hair and scalp conditions
Imagine a client wants their hair styled for a special occasion. To make sure their hair looks fantastic, any
conditions they have that may affect the style need to be treated.
l Start by researching the conditions below. You could use the Internet or textbooks.
l Then copy and complete a table like the one below.
l You could type up your findings as a report or handout for others.
Condition
Appearance
Treatment
Fragilitus crinium
(split ends)
Layer 1: the cuticle. This is the outer layer. It has overlapping
transparent scales and protects the other layers.
Damaged cuticle
Layer 2: t he cortex. This is the middle layer. It makes up the bulk
of the hair and gives it strength and elasticity. This is where
pigment cells are found.
Trichorrhexis nodosa
Layer 3: the medulla. This is the centre layer. It is not always present
in very fine hair. The function of this layer is unclear.
Cause
Seborrhoeoa
(greasy hair and scalp)
PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW
Functional Skills Links: English – reading, writing: IC
Hair follicles and bulbs
These are depressions in the skin shaped to fit the hair within. At
the base of the follicle is the bulb, and attached to the side is the
sebaceous gland, which opens out into the follicle.
Also attached to the follicle is the arrector pili muscle, which contracts
and closes the follicle opening. This can happen when we are scared
(it gives us goose bumps!). It also helps us to maintain body heat if the
temperature gets colder.
Check it out
■ What is the difference between a sebaceous gland and a sweat gland?
■ What are the three parts of a strand of hair?
■ Can clients with hair and skin conditions do anything at home to help improve them?
VTCT LEVEL 1 FOUNDATION DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES
Hair types and styles
(1)
Starting Point
Would you have a new hairstyle
just because it was fashionable?
Or would you think first about
whether it would suit you?
Do you feel pressure to copy
popular or new styles?
This section looks at everything that needs to be
considered before making a decision about styling
a client’s hair. We all have different types of hair,
shapes of face, length of body and so on. And we
all have different reasons for wanting certain hair
styles – parties, wedding day, or even because of our
jobs. A good stylist or barber will also consider their
client’s age, lifestyle, culture and perhaps even faith.
A client will get the best results if all these things
are carefully thought about before the scissors and
straighteners ever appear!
Reason for style
Female
Male
Round
Need to make face
look narrower.
Needs height and fullness
at the crown, with centre
parting. Layers on top for
fullness; the rest to be cut
close to face but cut longer
than chin length.
Sides shorter with height on top
and at front. Centre or off-centre
parting. A more square style.
Square
Need to make bone
structure appear less
angled.
Needs to be cut onto sides
of face, with wispy pieces.
Short-to-medium length hair.
Centre parting with height
at crown. Curls or waves will
soften shape.
Sides shorter with height on top
and at the front.
Facial features
Some clients may have prominent features they wish to disguise
– for example, protruding ears. Here are some general guidelines.
l For long, thin necks, hair must be kept longer.
Shape, texture and density all affect how you can actually style hair.
l For uneven or protruding ears, hair should be longer to cover the ears.
l Hair shape is generally straight, wavy or curly.
l For a large or protruding nose, hair should be styled forward to make the
nose less noticeable.
– Caucasian or European hair is straight or wavy.
– African Caribbean is often very curly.
l For short, wide necks, hair is layer and flicked out around the neck area.
Body shape
l Texture is whether hair is fine, medium or coarse.
A client’s build and size need to be thought about when planning their hair style.
l Density literally means how many hairs you have on your scalp
– whether it is sparse, medium or thick.
l Too much hair on short clients makes them look even shorter
– as if they are overwhelmed by hair.
Clients are individuals
l Short, flat styles on larger clients can make them look even bigger
– they need length and volume to hide their size.
When designing or choosing a hair style, head shape, facial features,
body shape, age, lifestyle and personality all need to be considered.
Age and lifestyle
Head shape
l Younger children may want basic styles that are easy to manage.
l If the crown is flat, the hair should be left slightly longer in that area
to compensate.
Age and lifestyle both have an effect on the hair style someone might choose.
l Teenagers are likely to be more adventurous and trendy.
l Mature clients might want something soft and flattering.
l Narrow heads need to look broader, so a side parting could be used.
l People with busy lives or who do sports may want a style they can tie back or clip up.
l Broad heads need to be narrower, so a centre parting could be used.
l Some professionals may have work rules regarding their hair length
– f or example, people in the armed forces. Others, such as cooks or the police, may have to
keep their hair under a cover or hat.
Face shape
Reason for style
Female
Oval
Client’s preference
An ideal shape that suits most styles.
Need to make face
look wider and
shorter.
Face shape
Hair shape, texture and density
– Asian hair is mainly straight and coarse in texture.
Long
UNIT 3 INTRODUCING HAIR STYLING
Needs a fuller style around
the sides of the face, with
side parting. Short to medium
length with layers will add
softness.
Male
Needs a longer, fuller style at the sides
of the face and short on top. Some
layers on the face.
l Culture or religion may have an impact on style.
Personality
People are usually either introverts or extroverts, and this may affect how much attention they
want to draw to themselves.
l Introverts may choose a natural look that doesn’t draw attention to them.
l Extroverts may be more adventurous and creative. But they might be restricted because of
work regulations
– in which case they could want a dual-purpose style.
[STUDIO: IF POSS START THIS SECTION ON THE SECOND DPS]
10
11
VTCT LEVEL 1 FOUNDATION DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES
Jargon buster
Asian –
person from Asia or of Asian
descent, or people who come from
(or whose family came from) the
Indian subcontinent
Caucasian –
light or white skinned race
Crown – top of the head
Sparse – thin
UNIT 3 INTRODUCING HAIR STYLING
Hair types and styles
(2)
Cultural factors
Special occasions
l Some faiths may have guidelines about what is allowed for men
and women when it comes to how they have their hair.
Cultural and faith factors can sometimes affect what is appropriate
for a hairstyle.
l Some cultures may use hair as a way of showing marital status,
for example.
There are several occasions when hair can be styled to make it more
glamorous or sophisticated.
Wedding hair
Over to you
One special event for many women is their wedding day. The stylist will
usually try out different styles before the ‘big day’. They will also check
that accessories like hair jewellery, flowers and other headdresses can
be securely attached without spoiling the overall style.
Cultural factors affecting hairstyle
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You are about to research three different faiths and the
hairstyles they allow. You can choose from Buddhism,
Christianity, Hinduism, Islam, Judaism or Sikhism. Or, if
you prefer, you can add in other religions you may know
about.
l First of all, work in groups of three to research the
hairstyles of your chosen faiths. You can use the Internet
and textbooks for this.
l Then work individually for the next part of the task.
l The first person can list the differences and similarities
between the hairstyles.
l The second person can try to find out if there is anything
written in the sacred texts about hairstyles.
l The third person can try to find out if the hairstyles come
from culture rather than faith.
l Working as a whole group again, put together all the
information you have found. Discuss any opinions you
have formed.
l Now choose a way to present this information
– perhaps as a handout, or ICT presentation.
PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW
Functional Skills Links: English – reading, writing; ICT
Check it out
Did you know?
■ Which would be more
susceptible to damage
– straight, wavy or curly hair?
African Caribbean hair
has more cuticle layers
and a smaller cortex
than Caucasian hair.
■ What factors need to be
considered when choosing a
style to suit a client?
An Indian bride’s hair style and accessories.
Party hair
■ What factors need to be
considered when styling hair
for a client with a square
face shape?
Other occasions that call for special hair styling are parties and events.
Here, elaborate styles can be created for birthdays, going to the theatre
and even fancy dress occasions.
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VTCT LEVEL 1 FOUNDATION DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES
Starting Point
How successful are you at styling
your own hair? How would it
help to know more about styling
products, tools and equipment?
UNIT 3 INTRODUCING HAIR STYLING
Tools, products
and equipment
Styling tools
All stylists and barbers need to know exactly what tools, products and
equipment will do the best job for each client’s hair. In this section you
will look at the different types of tools, products and equipment to use
when creating a style including shampooing, cutting, styling, drying and
styling the hair.
l rollers in a variety of sizes and pins to keep them in place (although
some rollers stay in place without these)
Top Tip
l pin curls
All tools must be sterilised between
clients. Metal items will go into
an autoclave and non-metal items
will go into a UV cabinet. Once
sterilised, all combs and brushes
must be stored in barbicide, which
keeps them sterile.
Some of these are used when the hair is still wet and removed when
it is dry:
l Kirby grips
l wavy clips
l sectioning clips
l hair bands.
Tools
All stylists and barbers need a range of tools, such as combs, brushes,
scissors, razors, clips, grips, pins and curlers.
Products
Products include:
l shampoos and conditioners (usually applied to wet hair), which clean
hair and improve the condition of it
l mousses and gel (usually applied to wet hair), which give volume to
the hair, help to keep it in place and help to give it shine
l hair moisturiser for African Caribbean hair (usually applied to wet
hair), which hydrates and protects hair
l setting lotions, blow dry spray, hairspray and wax (used on damp
hair, while drying or after drying), which have an effect on the final
style
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l straightening iron spray (used on dry hair), which helps to give shine
and protect from heat.
Jargon buster
Equipment
Autoclave –
sterilises using steam under pressure
This really relates to anything electrical and includes heated rollers,
straightening irons, curling tongs, all types of hairdryer and clippers.
Barbicide –
liquid used to disinfect tools
UV cabinet –
sterilises using UV light
Common tools of the hairdressing trade.
Imagine a stylist or barber tries to
use the same tools on you they had
just used on another client without
sterilising them. What would you
do? Would you remain quiet and
hope the previous client did not have
any contra-indications. Or would
you ask them to use tools that had
been sterilised?
Over to you
Combs and brushes
Each comb and brush has a specific job. It could be to untangle, dress
out curly or African Caribbean hair, to help section hair during cutting or
to influence the final style during drying. The list of these tools includes:
l Afro comb
l disentangling
comb
l radial/round brush
l cutting comb
l dressing out brush
or comb
l tail/pin tail comb
l Denham brush
l paddle brush
l vent brush.
Cutting tools
You will not be required to use these at this stage of your studies:
l scissors to cut hair into a style
l scissors to remove bulk rather than length
l razors that can shorten or remove bulk, and for shaving men’s
facial hair.
14
Picture this
Be creative
l Think about four hairstyles you have seen
that you would like to recreate. Now research
what you need to recreate each style.
l Imagine someone asks you about these styles. Make sure
you can tell them:
l – the name of the style (e.g. curly bob)
l – the products and equipment needed
(e.g. hairdryer, wax).
l Finally, think about how you will present the information
about each style. For example, you could create a mood
board of sketched or printed images plus written lists of
what you would use (and why).
l * Over a period of time, go through all the tools
mentioned in this spread to make sure you know what
they are. You could make a list that you tick off when you
have checked.
PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW
Check it out
■ Do you use a hairdryer or
straightening irons? If yes,
do you always use a spray
to protect your hair from
heat damage? If not what
condition is your hair in?
■ What types of hairdryer can
you think of?
Functional Skills Links: English – reading, writing; ICT
15
VTCT LEVEL 1 FOUNDATION DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES
Hair styling techniques
and methods (1)
Starting Point
How many styles have you and your
friends attempted to recreate?
How successful have you been?
What do you think you need to
know to have better success?
The section looks at a range of hair styling
techniques and methods. To begin with, there’s
an explanation of shampooing and conditioning
techniques. This is followed by details of styling
techniques and finish for both men and women.
Knowing all about these techniques and methods
will be a great start to understanding what makes a
style work, and what makes it stay in place!
Shampooing and conditioning
A stylist or barber generally talks to their client before they make any
decisions about styling or products. Then they prepare the hair – an
important part of getting the style discussed. Part of the preparation is
shampooing and conditioning – making sure that the correct products
are used for the client’s scalp and hair type.
Jargon buster
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Hospitality – when a client is
offered drinks and magazines at a
salon; making a client feel welcome
Petrissage or rotary. This is a deep kneading movement used when
shampooing the hair. The pads of the finger are used to move the scalp
and massage the upper neck, to relieve tension.
Top Tip
Hospitality, good communication
skills and confidentiality are key to
ensuring a successful relationship
with any client.
Did you know?
Indian Head Massage is a
treatment that can be performed
in the salon or barbers as an extra
treatment to relax the client. IHM
uses the different types of massage
movement and can be done while
the client is fully dressed.
16
Hair styling techniques
and methods (2)
You can achieve several finishes using a blow dryer.
Styling techniques and
finish for women
There are many different styling techniques and finish for women, as this
table shows.
Method
Styling products
Tools
Setting with rollers
Mousse or setting
lotion is applied
to damp hair.
Hairspray is used
at the end to
maintain the style.
Tail comb to section hair,
dressing out brush to
remove lines and dressing
out comb to style the hair (if
required).
Mousse or setting
lotion is applied
to damp hair.
Hairspray is used
at the end to
maintain the style.
Combed into position.
Mousse or setting
lotion is applied
to damp hair.
Hairspray is used
at the end to
maintain the style.
Dressed out the same as
roller setting.
Mousse or setting
lotion is applied
to damp hair.
Hairspray is used
at the end to
maintain the style.
Comb to position the
hair; dressing out brush to
remove lines; and dressing
out comb to style the hair (if
required).
Mousse, gel, or
blow dry spray.
Diffuser, fingers or brush
can be used.
Hairspray to hold
style in place.
Sectioning clips are used
to section the hair when
drying.
Shampooed hair is wound around a roller then dried under a hooded dryer
to create curls; produces very tight to loose curls.
Setting with pin curls
Shampooed hair is combed and a small section of hair is curled around the
fingers then pinned with a double-pronged clip and dried under a hooded
dryer.
Used to create curls, wave or height.
Barrel curl
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Effleurage. This is a light, even stroking movement that spreads the
products all over the hair. During this process, the hands and fingers
are moulded to the head. Effleurage is used as part of the massage
routine when the conditioner has been applied.
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Did you know?
Bobs have been a popular hairstyle
throughout the ages. Even the
ancient Egyptians styled their hair
in a bob.
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Shampooing and conditioning require specific massage movements,
which are described below.
Confidentiality – not discussing
private or personal client
information with anyone else
Massage – using the hands to
rub and knead the scalp and neck
muscles; can relieve tension and be
very relaxing
UNIT 3 INTRODUCING HAIR STYLING
Shampooed hair is combed and wound around the fingers to create a
barrel curl and pinned with a double-pronged clip. Used to produce same
effect as a roller, can be used in small spaces where a roller might not fit.
Finger waves
Shampooed hair is combed one way and clipped then combed the other
way and clipped. The hair is moulded to the fingers. This is repeated until
the area is complete. The hair is secured with double pronged clips and
dried under a hooded dryer. Creates ‘S’ shaped waves.
Friction. For this, one hand supports the head and the other hand
performs the movement. The stylist or barber applies pressure with
fingertips and heal of hand to move the scalp up and down relieving
tension.
Blow drying
Styling techniques and finish for men
l medium-length bouncy bob
Even though most men generally have shorter hair than women, they
can still have a range of styles and finishes. For example, their hair can
be finger dried, which directs the airflow and creates movement. This
kind of drying creates a soft, natural finish and gives root lift. Mousse
could be used to help. The hair can also be dried using mousse, gel or
blow dry spray and a hairdryer.
l curly hair using a diffuser and no brush, just scrunch drying.
Shampooed hair can be blow dried using a brush and hairdryer to create
different effects:
l long, straight and smooth
Page 17
OVERMATTER u
Over to you
Bobs through the ages
l What do you know about bobs? Using the Internet and
textbooks research this style through the ages. You could
look at when they were most popular, and the differences
between them (bobs can be sometimes longer at the front
or one length).
l Think about how you could present your findings to a
small group of people. You could create a mood board
which gives examples and the history of each type of bob.
l When you have shown the group your mood board, try to
start a discussion about the differences of each bob.
l short with volume
Finger drying
Using the fingers to dry short hair or to scrunch-dry curly hair. By rotating
the palm of the hand around to achieve root lift.
Mousse, gel, or
blow dry spray.
l You could continue your work on bobs by researching
the tools, products and equipment needed to create
each style. You could record this information on a table
or diagram, or you could write the information on your
mood board alongside each style.
Hairdryer.
Hairspray to hold
style in place.
PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW
Functional Skills Links: English – reading, writing; ICT
OVERMATTER u
17
Check it out
■ What are the three massage
movements called? And what
are the difference between
them?
■ When shampooing and
conditioning a client, do you
think this should be done
quickly and effectively, or
effectively but relaxing?
■ *What are the different types
of blow drying techniques?
What are differences between
them?
■ What are French plaits, pleats
and corn row plaits? (You
may need to use the Internet
or a textbook to research
these.)
VTCT LEVEL 1 FOUNDATION DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES
UNIT 3 INTRODUCING HAIR STYLING
Review learning
and progress
It is important that you
speak to your tutor/teacher/
practitioner if you ticked any
red or amber boxes so that
they can help you by:
Reflect on your
learning
In this unit you covered a range of information
about hair styling from the different hair industries
covering general stylists, African Caribbean stylists
and barbers. In the table below tick the box that you
think applies to your learning.
l directing you to some more
resources such as books and
websites, other specialists
What didn’t I understand or found
difficult to do?
Step 2 – Take action
2.
l giving you one-to-one support
and tutorial time to discuss
your knowledge and progress
I need to set extra time aside to
go over my work again.
3.
Red for stop and recap
l covering the lesson again
on this particular subject;
remember, if you ticked it
maybe others did too.
I will ask my tutor or teacher
for help.
Healthy and safe working practice
Step 3 – Review again
Amber for getting ready to move on
Green for moving on
What you
covered
Trends and
influences
Don’t feel
confident in my
knowledge of
the subject at
all and would
like to stop
and cover it
again
Feel fairly
confident in my
knowledge of
the subject but
wouldn’t mind
some more
help
Confident in
my knowledge
of the subject
now and want
to move on
It will also help you to identify
extra revision and study that you
may need to carry out before your
assessment.
Plan Do Review
learning cycle
This process will form the Review
part of the learning cycle.
Review learning and progress
involves all of the following.
Healthy and
safe working
practices
Anatomy and
physiology
l Inviting feedback on the
effectiveness of your hair
styling services.
l Dealing positively with the
feedback received.
l Assessing your abilities to
create a hair style in light of
the feedback received and
based on your own appraisal.
l Identifying your strengths and
areas for improvement.
Hair types
and styles
l Setting goals, with
success criteria, for further
development in hair-styling
services.
l Supporting your conclusions
with well-reasoned arguments.
Tools,
products and
equipment
Hair styling
techniques
and methods
19
Remember, you may not be
confident in a skill that you have
learned or section of knowledge
that you have covered.
So that you are clear about exactly
what you need further help
with, you need to reflect on your
learning so that you can identify
whether you are ready to move
onto the next subject. This will
also provide evidence for Personal,
Learning and Thinking Skills.
Step 1 – Review your learning
Unit 3 questions
Trends and influences
1.
Have my knowledge and skills
improved since Step 1?
1.
Am I more confident with the
unit?
2.
Am I ready to move on?
3.
Self-assessment questions
Under each of the following
headings try to ask yourself three
or more questions. The questions
must be your choice, not your
tutor’s/teacher’s/practitioner’s
or your friend’s, otherwise you
will not be reviewing your own
learning and experiences.
The questions could be based on
a practical or theory part of the
unit, as these examples show.
1 Did I manage to master the
practical skills to carry out a hair
styling treatment?
Anatomy and Physiology
1.
2.
3.
Hair types and styles
1.
2.
2 What could I improve on?
3 Where shall I look for help?
To each of the questions, you
should also provide an answer,
otherwise you will not be able
to move on. If you can’t answer
them straightaway you will
need to find out, then act on the
answers and review again.
3.
Tools, products and equipment
1.
2.
3.
Hair styling techniques and
methods
1.
2.
3.
20